Located five hours northwest of Beijing, Shanxi Province has played an important part in China's political, economic, and cultural development. Its' cities have served as capitals to numerous dynasties. Due to China's coastal oriented, export driven economy, Shanxi has found its previous status as a culture and economic center diminished. Today it is a center for heavy industry, coal production and other environmentally unfriendly enterprises. These activities have taken a toll on Shanxi's air quality and environment. Yet beyond this bleak image is a culturally rich gem, with charming rural areas and wonderful surprises for a traveler to discover.

I entered Shanxi from Inner Mongolia passing through a northern gate in the Great Wall named Tiger Kill Garrison. Here the Great Wall demarcates the political boundary between Shanxi and Inner Mongolia. Tiger Kill Garrison provides the chance to climb on an unreconstructed, tamped earth section of the Great Wall more than 600 years old. This is only one of countless defensive fortifications scattered across northern Shanxi, built to protect Imperial China from northern invaders. Moving southwards ancient watchtowers and fortifications dot the hilltops rising from the north China plain. The ruins are visual testimony to how critical protecting the Shanxi corridor was for China's internal security. The strongest and most capable enemies of central rule were often semi- nomadic northern tribes, whose cavalry could drive southwards and threaten northern Chinese cities and the capital.

Shanxi was a vital link on the ancient trade route between China and the west. More than 1500 years ago Buddhism arrived in Shanxi along the Silk Road from Central Asia, and became established as one of China's great faiths. A magnificent testament to Buddhism's tremendous impact on China is to be found southwest of Datong, at Yungang.

The Yungang Grottoes were created by the Tuoba, a Turkic people that established the Northern Wei Dynasty (386- 535). In 460, Emperor Wen Cheng ordered a massive government works project to atone for the cruel persecution of Buddhists that occurred under his predecessor. Altogether, more than 50,000 statues and statuettes are spread through 252 caves across the site. The works range in size from a few centimeters to more than 17 meters tall. The Buddhist pantheon, deified early Wei rulers, and even Vishnu and Shiva are represented. The sculptures are a fascinating mix of Chinese, Indian, Central Asian, Ionic and Hellenic elements. For anyone interested in Chinese art history or Buddhism, the Yungang Caves are not to be missed. The scale and grandeur of the site is remarkable.


South of the Yungang Grottoes is Mount Heng, northernmost of Daoism's five sacred peaks. There, an architectural marvel, the XuanKong ("hanging in the air") Temple floats precipitously against a high cliff. Xuankong's construction began 1500 years ago, and expanded during successive dynasties. Transporting the temple building materials across the sheer cliff face must have been perilous business. Worship halls are connected to one another by a network of bridges and ladders spanning the air. Despite its precarious location, this complex has survived countless earthquakes, wars and revolutions. Naturally, this endurance is attributed to supernatural protection.

The central Hall of the Three Great Religions is shared by Buddha, Laozi and Confucius. Evidence that for most Chinese people, Buddhism, Daoism and Confucianism were not mutually exclusive. Rather, each faith addressed different necessities for humans to manage their affairs in the human world and the afterlife.

Continuing south it was necessary to pass through the major city of Taiyuan, in order to reach the ancient walled city of Pingyao. The one and a half hour journey from Taiyuan to Pingyao was one of my most smog- choked rides in recent memory. Rolling beneath Pingyao's city gate via pedicab that evening my bus ride was quickly forgotten. I felt like I stepped out of a time machine, or on to a set from Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. This romantic old city is filled with endless narrow lanes and splendid courtyard homes. Pingyao is strongly rooted to its historic past and the visitor senses it immediately, in the city's cleanliness, and the easy going, dignified manner of its inhabitants. Pingyao exudes charm and character. There are many reasonably priced, quiet courtyard hotels. Simply appointed guest rooms feature traditional wooden canopy beds and furniture to put visitors in the proper state of mind.


Although Pingyao has a history of more than 2000 years, it rose to great prominence during the Ming Dynasty (1368- 1644). By the mid-Qing (c.1850) Pingyao was the financial capital of China and home to many of China's wealthiest families. Businessmen hailing from Pingyao established draft- banking houses across the Chinese empire. Their courtyard homes are well preserved and visiting them provides a glimpse into the lifestyle of the Chinese elite hundreds of years ago. Many of these residences have more than 600 years of history. Once inside, one can study historic interiors, furniture and architecture. Particularly interesting is the former residence of Lei Lutai. Lei was a tremendously successful businessman and founder of Rishengchang, one of Shanxi's most successful draft banks. Every stone banister and handrail within the four courtyards of the compound is carved with sculptural representations of the Daoist pantheon. Some rooms are decorated with period paintings applied directly to the walls.

The design of the sleeping quarters within these compounds mimics the cave dwellings of north China. The brick buildings themselves are two stories high. Inside are narrow rooms with high vaulted ceilings. This design makes the space cool in summer and warm in winter. Each room has a large platform bed constructed of bricks and heated by a flue. The platform extends across the short wall of the space. Cotton mattresses would be unrolled on the top for sleeping.

Pingyao is one few remaining, largely intact, imperial Chinese cities. A reasonably priced day pass allows you to climb the city wall and visit all the historic sites within the perimeter. Reachable by bicycling or walking, these sites are too much for one or two days, so you will need to be selective. There is the option to leave main thoroughfares to the tourist hordes and seek out residences on the perimeter of the walled city. Some of these are outstanding and un-crowded.


Outside the ancient city walls are two treasures easily reachable by hired vehicle that no visitor should miss, the Zhenguo and Shuanglin Temples. Due to the terrible damage inflicted by Mao's Red Guards across China during the Cultural Revolution, many reconstructed temples feel superficial and share a bland, flat generic restoration. These two temples were defended from destructive Red Guards by armed workers living in the temple compounds during the Cultural Revolution and were thus untouched. The temples' contain an abundance of sculptures, frescoes and architecture dating back over 1000 years. Stylistically, these two sites are quite unlike any other temples I have visited in China. Highlights of Zhenguo Temple include one of China's oldest wooden buildings, the Wanfo Palace, from the time of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms (c. 960). The roof construction and the building's eaves are a fascinating example of a highly complex interlocking roof construction, that also imparts a deep spiritual energy. Housed inside the building are numerous large sculptures from the 10th century, carved in the Tang Dynasty artistic style. Zhenguo Temple also houses outstanding and rare Buddhist frescoes. The site is non- commercial and unspoiled.

Located closer to Pingyao in the opposite direction is Shuanglin Temple. Passing the front gate you are faced by huge, menacing sculptures of the four heavenly kings created during the Yuan Dynasty (1168-1244). These dramatic sculptures were to protect the temple from evil intruders and also strike fear into the hearts of those who viewed them. The various shrines of Shuanglin Temple are almost rococo, with literally thousands of small Bodhisattvas carved in three- dimensional relief, perched upon floor to ceiling swirling clouds twisting in every direction. Both temples are best visited by renting a car.

On my last morning in Pingyao, while walking the outside perimeter of the city wall, I discovered an open field with a large covered temporary stage. People were beginning to stake their claim to places in front of the stage to watch Yangge, a colloquial opera performed around Shanxi. The actors and actresses were a traveling troupe from neighboring Tonggu County. Going backstage provided an intimate opportunity to see the performers up close, preparing their costumes and make up.




It was a fascinating behind the scenes glimpse of one of China's most enduring art forms. Altogether the Tonggu troupe employs over thirty people, including a large traditional orchestra. They travel the Shanxi countryside for much of the year performing a classical repertoire and entertaining local residents. By afternoon there were hundreds of people in attendance to watch familiar Chinese historical dramas.

When the time came to return to Taiyuan and catch my flight south to Guiyang, I left regretfully. Shanxi exceeded all my expectations and my experience left me eager to visit again. After all, Wutaishan the Buddhist holy site on Shanxi's northern border with Inner Mongolia is a trip in itself. I look forward to the opportunity to go back.